Sunday, October 17, 2010

Wine country recap, round 1...


First off: who's that smiling guy hanging out over my shoulder?

No idea.

Next question: how did he have the good sense to smile at precisely the moment that picture was being taken?

Again, no idea.

Final question: how much of a mea culpa do I need to issue after presenting myself as a slightly more avid wine-specific blogger in the tasting room of our new favorite winery before I stop feeling like quite such a fraud?

Answer: big, giant mea culpa. An also a huge THANKS to Mike Madigan, the wizard in the St Francis tasting rom who reminded me precisely what inspired me to begin this blog in the first place. And because I believe I'm less dedicated than he, here's what we ought to do as penance: we ought to visit him HERE.  Thanks, Mike, for some perfectly-timed inspiration back in the direction from whence this blog came.

I mean, truly, this did began as an ode to My Favorite Thing: The Bubbly. But then pop culture reared it's delicious head and all of a sudden (for 4 years and change) the goings on of Posh and Lindsay and Sister Wives somehow became that much more alluring.

But anyway - all tangential pop culture musings aside, I'm writing this from the middle of California Wine Country proper - the tourist-friendly Santa Rosa. We've wrapped up day 3......here's my report card:

Day 1 - We arrive.

No wineries, just great margaritas and old people dancing while old people sang. And it was great singing. Hit up the Ledson Hotel in downtown Sonoma for some "Welcome to wine country!" imbibing. There was live music in the form of ancient local crooners who managed better than Sinatra and had the charm of Dean Martin - and I'll never get tired of watching over dressed, "Hell-yes-I've-still-got-it-GIRLFRIEND-" styled grandmas try to charm the unsuspecting 30-something studs into a little late-night (8pm - !!!!) two-step. Too cute to pass up.

Also, points to the management at that lovely establishment for being genteel enough to charm us into drinks when we were otherwise inclined to go home and straight to bed. At 6pm. Whatever - we got up early.

Consumed: Schramsburg Rose. We both declared it delicious. Had some reservations before the first sip since I remember the Schramsberg brut being MUCH too chardonnay heavy and practically undrinkably buttery. Was pleasantly relieved - the rose was perfect. Bummer the Schramsberg tours are booked out for the rest of our visit.....next time, next time.

Day 2 - We get illegal.


But I'll get to that later. Mom hadn't been to Mumm, so we started the day out in Napa. Patio was booked, so we ended up indoors (bummer....). Have to declare Mumm sparklers underrated. Sure, they're no Domaine Carneros (.....they can't all be), but the Cuvee M and the Demi Sec were dependable and smooth, the DVX releases were deliciously mineral-heavy (describe a sparkling wine as "mineral-ee" and I'm sold). The sparkling Syrah was....better after we'd finished the others. Would recommend nixing that from a tasting flight because it pairs poorly. OR, everything that makes it distinct and exciting is lost when you sip it following anything off-dry. I'll say this about the winery: they could stand to invest in their tasting room staff a little more vigorously. They're the first representation of the winery most visitors receive....when they sound like they're reciting a tasting note crib sheet rather than participating in the tasting experience as enthusiasts....you lose something as a visitor.

Next stop: Domaine Chandon. The place we got illegal. Maybe I shouldn't broadcast our bill-dodging bent, but, frankly, when you walk into the tasting room equivalent of a frat house, you feel a little vindicated when you get even with the schmucks who ignored you by creeping out without paying for the ONE glass of bubbly you had to wait 15 minutes to order.

Bottom line: skip this place. The tasting room is mahem, the wines aren't any better than what you'll find at Mumm or Gloria Ferrer, and if I want to drive all the way to their winery to be completely ignored and then patronized....I'll choose someplace where the wine is tastier. Case in point: I ask the gentleman behind the counter what HIS favorite would be. Received in return: and eye roll and some pat response about wine being subjective and everyone's tastes being different.

Ya think?

This isn't my first rodeo, moron. I could give you eight different sparkling houses that would dance circles around your action.

Anyway - they poured us the wine, they disappeared.....and so did we. Glug glug. First time I've ever done this, by the way. Thanks, meat heads.

Stopped by Mondavi on our way out of town because it felt like a slice of classic Americana that I didn't want to miss. Steward poured generously and comped us a tasting. Probably the best Pinot Noir I've tasted (yes, Willamette Valley, that means YOU, too). Unexpectedly sweet (coming from me, that's a compliment). two thumbs up - the winery was striking, not crowded at 4pm on a Saturday (no kidding), the people were friendly....have nothing bad to say about these guys. There's a reason Mondavi was an Institution.

Day 3 - Rainy, with a chance of Malbec.


Woke up to rain. Hmm. Feels suspiciously like home. Waited it out for awhile, then struck out to Rutherford. Had never headed up much north of Windsor, was a beautiful drive out there.....stopped at Ferrari-Carano. Have loved their Viognier-like Fume Blanc for years - fruity, hint of something dry Riesling-esque, was fun to drink it with a view of such gorgeous gardens. The ladies in the tasting room were a little brusque, but the gentlemen downstairs in the reserve room much more gracious. The black muscat dessert wine was a treat....have never tasted anything quite like it.

Stopped at St Francis afterward since we've enjoyed that place every time we've visited. Thanks, Mike, for a great experience! Fun to bump into a fellow-blogger! Great people there.....consistently the friendliest, warmest, least intimidating staff, certainly the least likely to make us feel like morons. And we're insecure like that in a tasting environment. So, we're not huge Cab fans, we could do without the old vine Zins, we may have trouble articulating why we don't like that chardonnay, but we enjoy the tasting experience and love bumping into people in tasting rooms who treat us like guest and friends rather than idiots who don't know our AVAs from our asses. So cheers to St Francis - we'll be back!

Off to pizza for dinner.....and am hardly proofreading this, so if I'm typo-riddled, it's a vacation. I'm allowed.

Tomorrow - off to my favorites: Gloria Ferrer (for their gorgeous patio and a bottle of Va de Vi) and Domaine Carneros for some Le Reve and caviar. Blue skies, please!

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